Costa Rica’s variety of landscapes, incredible fauna and pura vida can easily fill up a month of travels, resulting in a challenge for first timers like us. This two-week itinerary visits three distinct regions: the Arenal Volcano and waterfalls of Bajos del Toro, the wild Osa Peninsula and the Pacific Coast.
Two-Week Costa Rica Itinerary
- Part I – Volcanoes & Waterfalls: Arenal & Bajos del Toro
- Part II – The Wild Side: Osa Peninsula
- Part III – The Pacific Coast & Nicoya Peninsula
Part I – Volcanoes & Waterfalls: Arenal & Bajos del Toro
Day 1: Arrival in San Jose & Drive to Arenal
If your flight arrives in the morning, it is doable to tackle the three-hour drive to Arenal the same day. We flew in at 11:00 AM and picked up our rental car around 1:30 PM. The scenic drive along Route 702 is scattered with local eateries, serving traditional casado with a view of the highlands. Plan to arrive at the Arenal Observatory Lodge by sunset, as the curvy roads are not suited for driving at night. Even after the sun goes down, the vast grounds of the lodge offer an introduction to Costa Rica’s wildlife.
Stay: Arenal Observatory Lodge
Day 2: Arenal Observatory Lodge
The area bordering the Arenal Volcano is a tourist hub, with La Fortuna at its center. We opted for the views without the crowds at Arenal Observatory Lodge, the only hotel located inside Arenal Volcano National Park. You can buy a day pass to access the lodge’s nature trails and birdwatching deck, but waking up at the foot of the volcano is even better. The majestic Arenal never disappears from sight as you explore the stunning grounds. Start and end the day at the wrap-around deck of El Jilguero Restaurant, with a stunning sunset over Lake Arenal.
Stay: Arenal Observatory Lodge
Day 3: Catarata del Toro & Blue Falls, Bajos del Toro
Just a short drive from Arenal, the town of Bajos del Toro still manages to fly under the radar of international tourism. Waterfalls in all shapes and sizes dot the lush green valley. Catarata del Toro and Blue Falls are the perfect introduction to this waterfall wonderland, with clearly marked trails leading up to the falls. If you plan to hike all seven falls, be prepared to break a sweat. We refueled after the hike with a delicious casado from Soda Donde Pity, before heading to our stay for the night. Los Gallitos Eco Lodge is a simple but enchanting farm stay 30-minutes north of Bajos del Toro.
Stay: Los Gallitos Eco Lodge
Day 4: Catarata Vuelta del Cañon, Bajos del Toro
On the second day in Bajos del Toro, hike the adventurous out-and-back trail to Catarata Vuelta del Cañon. Like most waterfalls in Bajos del Toro, it is tucked away on land owned by a local farmer, who charges an entrance fee in return for a well-marked trail. Several river crossings lead to a spectacular double waterfall, enclosed by lush vegetation. There are many other waterfall hikes to complete the day, but we choose a relaxing soak in the nearby hot springs of Recreo Verde instead.
Stay: Los Gallitos Eco Lodge
Day 5: From the Highlands to the Pacific
After four days in the highlands, Costa Rica’s coast is calling. We embarked on the four-hour drive with several stops along the way. Along route 126, the impressive La Paz waterfall pops up in the car window. Further south lies Hacienda Alsacia, the first and only coffee farm owned by Starbucks. Enjoy coffee with panoramic views of the farm from the café, before heading straight for the Pacific. In the sleepy beach town of Esterillos Oeste, Soda Margarita serves up a laid-back lunch on the beach. Continue to Manuel Antonio or Uvita for a layover night, as adventure awaits the next morning.
Stay: Manuel Antonio or Uvita
Part II – The Wild Side: Osa Peninsula
Day 6: Boat from Sierpe to Drake Bay
Today marks the start of our favorite leg of this trip. Drake Bay is part of the Osa Peninsula, accesible only by an adventurous one-hour boat ride. Thanks to its remote location on the edge of rainforest and beach, it delivers the wild Costa Rica that we were dreaming to find. Public boats depart from Sierpe daily at 11:30 AM and 4:30 PM. Catch the morning boat, so you’ll have the afternoon to install at the stunning Sunset Lodge. The private cabins are enclosed by lush jungle, with beautiful balconies overlooking the bay and a shower that dreams are made of.
Stay: Sunset Lodge, Drake Bay
Day 7: Drake Bay Hiking Trail
The only way to beat Drake Bay’s tropical heat is to wake up at the break of dawn. Luckily, the Sunset Lodge makes waking up early easy. Breakfast is served with sweeping views of the jungle, while toucans and macaws put up a morning show. After breakfast, set out for the 13-mile Drake Bay Hiking Trail. This unique hike runs at the edge of the jungle, past countless pristine beaches and coves. Enjoy a refreshing dip in the ocean while snacking on mangoes along the way: it doesn’t get more pura vida than this.
Stay: Sunset Lodge, Drake Bay
Day 8: Corcovado National Park
Even though it’s a destination in its own right, Drake Bay is also the starting point for excursions to Corcovado National Park. Both day and overnight trips depart at sunrise from the beach, to one of five ranger stations. After a bumpy boat ride, you’ll arrive at one of the most biodiverse places in the world. We took a day trip to Sirena station with Pacheco Tours. Sirena is known to house an abundance of wildlife, which the expert guides spot and even photograph for you. Top off this stay in paradise with an ocean view dinner at Claudio’s Grill or Casa El Tortugo,
Stay: Sunset Lodge, Drake Bay
Part III – The Pacific Coast & Nicoya Peninsula
Day 9: Coastal Route 34 to Manuel Antonio
We cruised out of Drake Bay on the morning boat, to make our way up the Pacific coast. Route 34 is known as the Costanera, a pleasant drive past coastal towns and ocean views. You can visit the whale tail of Uvita or the Nauyaca Falls before heading to Manuel Antonio, a little tourist town at the entrance of the namesake park. Reserve your visit for the next morning, when animals are most active and tour busses have not arrived yet. Spend the afternoon surrounded by monkeys in the pool of Mango Moon Villa, prior to a sunset dinner with spectacular views at Le Papillon Restaurant.
Stay: Mango Moon Villa, Manuel Antonio
Day 10: Manuel Antonio & Ferry to Nicoya Peninsula
Manuel Antonio National Park is the smallest yet most popular park in Costa Rica, because of its accessibility, beautiful beaches and abundant wildlife. If you visited Corcovado, be prepared to see more people than animals this time around. Reserve your spot right when the park opens, so you can walk most of the trails before the crowds start flooding in. Continue along the Costanera to the Puntarenas ferry terminal, with a lunch stop at beachfront Vida Hermosa Bar & Restaurant. The car ferry to Paquera takes a little over an hour and tickets can be purchased online. The 6 PM ferry comes with a beautiful sunset included.
Stay: Hotel Vista Las Islas, Paquera
Day 11: Isla Tortuga
The azure waters and white-sand beaches of Isla Tortuga attract day trippers from across the Pacific coast. Staying in Paquera, you’ll have a head start on all of them. Isla Tortuga is a small island in front of the Curú Wildlife Refuge. Boat trips from Curú leave at 9 AM and can be purchased on the spot. After a snorkeling stop, the boat heads to a secluded beach on Isla Tortuga, away from the crowds. We asked to be dropped off at Playa Quesera on the way back. From this white-sand beach, it takes a hot and humid one-hour hike back to the entrance of Curú. Cool off in the infinity pool of Hotel Vista Las Islas, with sunset views over Isla Tortuga.
Stay: Hotel Vista Las Islas, Paquera
Day 12: Southern Nicoya Peninsula
The Nicoya coast is known as a surfer’s paradise, lined with popular beach towns. Santa Teresa is often compared with Tulum, enough reason for us to skip it all together. To get a taste of Nicoya’s beach towns, visit nearby Montezuma instead. The two dirt roads house a couple of shops, restaurants and a popular waterfall. Stop by Catarata El Chorro on the way back, as it’s one of few waterfalls soaring straight into the ocean. The last night on Nicoya Peninsula is reserved for a magical adventure. A kayak tour with Bahia Rica brings you up close with bioluminescent plankton in the Paquera Bay.
Stay: Hotel Vista Las Islas, Paquera
Day 13: Return to the Central Valley
After seven days on Costa Rica’s Pacific coast, we head back inland to San José and the surrounding Central Valley. Thanks to abundant rainfall and high elevations, this region houses many of the country’s renown coffee producers. We bypassed the big estates and visited a family-owned farm instead. Tio José offers an authentic experience in the wonderful world of coffee and cacao. You can taste several coffee varieties and even make your own chocolate to take home. Enjoy the last night in Costa Rica at the charming Villa San Ignacio, just twenty minutes from the airport.
Stay: Villa San Ignacio, Alajuela
Klara the Explorer 
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