The Yucatán Peninsula is Mexico’s number one tourist destination with good reason, offering all the best of Mexico without having to worry about the worst (crime, traffic madness and bad roads). This itinerary packs hidden cenotes, ancient Maya cities, impressive haciendas and beautiful beaches in a two-week road trip. It covers what to see in each location, where to stay and details to plan your perfect trip.

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Table of Contents

• Day 1 & 2 – Mérida
• Day 3 – Celestún
• Day 4 – Road to Uxmal
• Day 5 – Uxmal
• Day 6 – San Francisco de Campeche
• Day 7 – Calakmul
• Day 8 – Bacalar
• Day 9 – Tulum
• Day 10 – Akumal
• Day 11 – Isla Mujeres
• Day 12 & 13 – Isla Holbox
• Day 14 – Valladolid
• Day 15 – Chichén Itzá & Izamal

Day 1 & 2 – Mérida

Start and endpoint of this road trip is the enchanting city of Mérida. The capital of Yucatán state has a small international airport, although most flights arrive from within Mexico. With a beautiful but compact historic center, Mérida can be explored in one or two days. The colorful streets are even prettier at sunset, when Paseo de Montejo turns into a bustling boulevard.

Traditional restaurants in Mérida serve Yucatán staples on elegant outdoor patios. We had a perfect introduction to Yucatán cuisine on the stunning courtyard of Museo de Gastronomía. Another recommended dining experience in Mérida is La Chaya Maya, always in high demand for its economical traditional menu. Yucatán’s favorite sweet treats marquesitas are sold by street food carts.

We visited Mérida during Hanal Pixan, the Yucatán version of Día de Muertos. Although festivities were limited due to the pandemic, we still got a good taste of this unique Mexican holiday. Decorated altars and the smell of incense followed us around the city.

Stay: Casa Italia Guest House, Mérida

Our stay in Mérida for three nights was Casa Italia Guest House, a small oasis at two blocks from Paseo de Montejo. The posh boulevard is home to several luxury hotels, like the iconic Rosas & Xocolate Boutique Hotel with its pink facade.

Day 3 – Celestún

The northwestern coast of the Yucatán Peninsula is scattered with fishing villages and undeveloped beaches, a sharp contrast with the resorts of the Riviera Maya on the east. We set out on a day trip from Mérida to Celestún, a sleepy beach town and gateway to the Ria Celestún Biosphere Reserve. This birder’s paradise attracts thousands of migrating flamingos each winter and is home to over 300 bird species.

You can sign up for a boat tour into the reserve at the river pier, right before entering Celestún. As we were traveling at the start of November, only the early birds had arrived. The boat continues on the river through the mangroves, where sunlight turns the water bright red. This striking effect results from the red mangroves in the reserve.

From the pier, the road leads straight to the ocean through the town of Celestún. The coast is lined with low-key restaurants offering tables right on the beach. We picked La Palapa for micheladas and a tasty seafood lunch. The beaches of Celestún are covered in beautiful seashells.

Stay: Mérida

Day 4 – Road to Uxmal

The one-hour drive from Mérida to Uxmal winds through the jungle, past haciendas and cenotes. The Yucatán Peninsula houses thousands of cenotes, some highly commercialized and many others hardly discovered. After passing a sign to Cenote Kankirixche, we took our chances and turned into a bumpy dirt road. Thanks to its off-the-beaten-path location, this cenote remains hidden from the larger public. The best time to visit is around noon, when the sun lights up the cenote.

After this refreshing dip, we took a small detour to Hacienda Temozón for lunch. Hacienda Temozón is part of the Luxury Collection by Marriott, comprising five stunning haciendas in Yucatán and Campeche. The restaurant offers a peek into the beautiful grounds to non-hotel guests.

Stay: The Lodge at Uxmal

We spent the rest of the afternoon in The Lodge at Uxmal, our enchanting stay for two nights. The pyramids of Uxmal are located right next to the lodge and can be seen from the garden. The rooms are set in two-story bungalows with thatched roofs, surrounded by lush vegetation and two inviting (but freezing) pools.

Day 5 – Uxmal

The archeological zone of Uxmal receives just a fraction of the visitors that flock to famous Chichén Itzá. The architecture, jungle setting and serenity of Uxmal certainly had our preference. An official tour guide can be booked at the entrance to bring the ruins to life. Nowadays, the ancient Maya city is dominated by iguanas.

Uxmal is best explored first thing in the morning, before the heat is in full swing. After lounging by the pool, we visited Choco-Story Eco-Park right across the street. In addition to exhibits about the history of cacao in Maya culture, the park houses a beautiful tropical garden. You can taste traditional Maya hot chocolate, made with fresh cacao and rich spices.

Stay: Uxmal

Day 6 – San Francisco de Campeche

The state of Yucatán borders with Campeche, the least visited of the three states on the Yucatán Peninsula. From Uxmal, it’s a two-hour drive to the charming coastal town of San Francisco de Campeche. The historic center is entirely enclosed by old city walls. Restaurants serve Yucatán staples like cochinita pibil on the colorful streets.

The Historic Fortified Town of Campeche is UNESCO World Heritage. Founded in the 16th century, Campeche used to be the most important port city in the region. The city walls were erected to keep the pirates out. A day is all you need to discover this authentic coastal town. On our way to a delicious seafood dinner in La Pigua, we stumbled upon a danzón competition with live orchestra.

Stay: Hotel Gamma Campeche

We slept with the sound of crashing waves at Hotel Gamma Campeche. The basic hotel rooms all come with a balcony overlooking the oceanfront boulevard.

Day 7 – Calakmul

The ancient Maya city of Calakmul is nestled deep in the jungle, close to the Guatemalan border. We visited Calakmul while crossing the Yucatán Peninsula from Campeche to Bacalar. An early start is a must, as the driving time alone adds up to eight hours. The entrance to Calakmul appears on Highway 186, about halfway through the five-hour journey between Campeche and Bacalar. After a 90-minute drive into the jungle on a curvy single-lane road, you reach the archeological zone.

The remote location of Calakmul makes it a secluded and mysterious site, where the rainforest still rules. Spider monkeys jump from tree to tree while howler monkeys are heard in the background. The archeological zone is made up of several connecting jungle trails, but signage is confusing to say the least. The pyramids are among the tallest ever discovered in the Maya world, and can be climbed for expansive jungle views.

Stay: Casa Shiva Bacalar by MIJ, Bacalar

The lure of this simple hotel is its location, right on Laguna Bacalar. Especially with limited time in Bacalar, staying at a lakeside hotel allows you to enjoy this unique destination to the fullest.

Day 8 – Bacalar

Since we arrived late at night, it wasn’t until the next morning that our stunning surroundings were revealed. Lakeside hotels in Bacalar offer a gateway to paradise, with private piers right on the laguna. A stay in Casa Shiva comes with free use of paddle boards and kayaks, perfect for some morning exercise.

In the afternoon, we reserved a boat tour through the hotel to get up close with the seven colors of Laguna Bacalar. The captain took us to secluded areas of the lake in return for a generous tip, and kept the coronitas flowing to assure the latter. The shades of blue of Laguna Bacalar are nothing short of spectacular and make it one of the most beautiful places to visit in Mexico.

Stay: Villas Geminis Boutique Condohotel, Tulum

From Bacalar, it’s a little over two hours driving to Tulum. In Tulum, you can pick between two main areas to stay: the Zona Hotelera along the coast, or Tulum town. The Zona Hotelera is a bumpy dirt road flanked by overpriced hotels, while Tulum town is a pueblo magico with a flip side. You can stay at a hotel in Tulum town for a fraction of the cost from the Zona Hotelera, but quality in both areas is hit or miss.

Day 9 – Tulum

After a week of traveling on Yucatáns quiet side, arriving in Tulum requires some adjusting. No more secluded cenotes and pyramids, but tour busses and tourist traps. Tulum’s main attraction are the Tulum Ruins, thanks to their stunning location overlooking the ocean. Once you negotiate an acceptable parking rate, pushy souvenir sellers and self-proclaimed guides await on the one-kilometer walk to the ruins.

Tulum’s other draw are the beaches along the Zona Hotelera. The entire coastline is a succession of boho-chic beach clubs. They draw on the long-gone authentic hippie vibes of Tulum, back when it was still a simple fisherman’s village. Most beach clubs don’t charge a cover fee but have a minimum spend.

Stay: Tulum

Day 10 – Akumal

If one day in Tulum feels like enough, nearby Akumal makes for a perfect day trip. Akumal Beach is located in a tranquil bay with coral reefs that house sea turtles. In order to snorkel at Akumal beyond a small freely accessible area, you have to pay for a guided tour, in addition to the entrance fee to Akumal Beach.

We opted for the guided tour and spotted several sea turtles, but you can get lucky even in the freely accessible area. Snorkeling is best first thing in the morning, when the ocean is calm and tour busses haven’t arrived yet. Afterwards, you can enjoy a laid-back beachside lunch at Lol-Ha Restaurant.

Stay: Tulum

Day 11 – Isla Mujeres

From Tulum, a two-hour drive north along the Riviera Maya leads to Cancún. Besides the most popular resort town in Mexico, Cancún is the gateway to Isla Mujeres. We bypassed the resorts and took the Ultramar Ferry from Puerto Juarez to Isla Mujeres. The island excursion starts when you board the ferry, with live music and a bar on deck.

Playa Norte on Isla Mujeres is rightfully considered one of the best beaches in Mexico. You can rent daybeds at one of the many beach clubs and enjoy a relaxed afternoon at this stunning beach. With its warm and transparent waters, Playa Norte definitely had our preference over Tulum’s beaches, which have more waves and are colder.

Stay: Izla Hotel, Isla Mujeres

Our favorite part of Isla Mujeres was our stay at the elegant Izla Hotel. This oceanfront hotel has an impressive rooftop pool where you can watch the sun sink into the Gulf of Mexico. All rooms have an inviting balcony with at least a partial ocean view.

Day 12 & 13 – Isla Holbox

Isla Holbox is a small island off Yucatan’s northern coast. It can only be reached by boat from the remote town of Chiquilá, a two-hour drive from Cancún. The laid-back hippie vibe that Tulum lost a long time ago can still be found on Isla Holbox: there is not a single resort and the island is completely car-free. The only way to get around the unpaved roads is by foot or golf cart.

You’ll need at least two nights in Isla Holbox to make the trip worthwhile. There are several excursions that can be booked through the hotel or in the center of town. We embarked on a Three Islands Tour, which travels by speed boat to three different locations: Isla Pájaros, Isla de la Pasión and a beautiful cenote across from Isla Holbox on the mainland.

The remoteness of Isla Holbox results in an extraordinary natural spectacle. If conditions are right, bioluminescence lights up the ocean and lagoons in the most remote corners of the island. Wading in the water reveals a magical blue glow. We set our alarms at 2 AM for a guided excursion through the mangroves, an unforgettable experience.

Stay: Beachfront Hotel La Palapa, Isla Holbox

We stayed in Beachfront Hotel La Palapa, our favorite stay on the trip that takes beachfront to another level. The hotel is located steps away from the ocean, with balconies between the palm trees. After sleeping like a baby with the sound of gentle waves, breakfast is served on the beach.

Day 14 – Valladolid

After a week in Quintana Roo, we looped back to the state of Yucatán. Valladolid is a beautiful colonial city, enclosed by jungle and cenotes of all shapes and sizes. It’s the perfect base to embark on a self-guided cenote discovery tour. You can easily visit one of each type: open, semi-open and closed, ranging from mature to young.

We first visited Cenote Palomitas, a closed cenote in an impressive cavern. Afterwards, locals guided us to Cenote Sac-Aua, a beautiful semi-open cenote with an island in the middle. Rain got in our way of visiting more cenotes, but there are plenty in Valladolid’s surroundings and even one in the city center – Cenote Zaci.

Stay: Hotel Le Muuch, Valladolid

Hotel Le Muuch is a stunning urban oasis in Valladolid. You can easily get lost exploring the maze of pools, gardens and patios.

Day 15 – Chichén Itzá & Izamal

Chichén Itzá is considered one of the greatest Maya cities and UNESCO world heritage. Tour busses from Cancún and the Riviera Maya flood in daily, making it the most visited archeological site in Mexico. With hundreds of vendors lined up in the archeological zone, it resembles more of an open-air souvenir market. But as one of Mexico’s iconic sights, Chichén Itzá is hard to skip on any Yucatán roadtrip.

You can combine the visit with nearby cenote Ik Kil. Overgrown with lush plants and hanging vines, it’s another popular sight in Yucatán. The best time to visit is first thing in the morning, as most tour busses visit on the way back from Chichén Itzá.

We continued our journey to the pueblo mágico of Izamal. Many houses in Izamal used to be yellow in honor of the Sun God, but it wasn’t until a visit from the pope that the entire town received a yellow makeover. An hour or two is enough to walk around the center and have a nice Mexican lunch.

Stay: Hacienda Sacnicte, Izamal

We ended our trip in style at Hacienda Sacnicte, on the outskirts of Izamal. The gorgeous grounds and rooms are perfect to relax after a packed two-week itinerary in Yucatán. We only wished that we would have booked another night. The hotel is only an hour drive to the airport of Mérida.

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