Big Island of Hawaii Itinerary: 5-Day Road Trip Around the Island

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The Big Island was our second stop on a two-week, three-island trip to Hawaii. Shaped by active volcanoes, the island is home to extremely varied scenery and climate zones. Explore the incredibly diverse Big Island of Hawaii with this 5-day road trip itinerary that loops around the island.

Day 1: Volcanoes National Park

We arrived at Kona Airport on a short Hawaiian Airlines flight from Maui. The presence of multiple active volcanoes is visible from the air, as old lava flows dominate the landscape. We rented a car through Booking.com for this trip, with pick-up at the airport.

Aerial view of a rugged coastal landscape with green hills and blue ocean waves crashing against the shore.
Aerial view of a coastline with black volcanic rock, sandy beach, and a road lined with palm trees, overlooking a turquoise ocean.
A scenic road lined with tall palm trees and colorful foliage under a clear blue sky, with a white car driving ahead.

The drive to Volcanoes National Park is only two hours, but adding in stops along the way can easily turn it into a day. We saved the Captain Cook area for later, and headed straight for Volcano Village. Our first poke on the island was served with a tasty side of Hawaiian Mac by Reel Aloha Poke and Fish Co.

Window decal of 'Reel Aloha Poke & Fish Co.' featuring a graphic of a fish, with 'OPEN' sign visible in the background.
A takeout container holding a serving of poke bowl with marinated raw fish, diced vegetables, creamy macaroni salad, and a mound of seasoned white rice.

The road passes by Punaluʻu Beach, a black sand beach that attracts green sea turtles. This impressive big guy ended up as the only green sea turtle we spotted in Hawaii.

A sea turtle resting on rocky shore covered in seaweed, with waves gently splashing around it and a lush green landscape in the background.

Volcanoes National Park encompasses the summits of two active volcanoes: Mauna Loa and Kīlauea. Considered among the most active in the world, there is a good chance of witnessing an eruption when visiting the Big Island.

Entrance sign for Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, featuring the park's name and the National Park Service emblem, surrounded by greenery and a cloudy sky.

At the time of our trip, Kīlauea had been erupting for six months already. We made it to the crater rim after dinner, a perk of staying the night inside the park. The eruption could be seen from miles away in the dark, lighting up the sky bright orange.

A dark road flanked by silhouettes of trees under a red-orange sky, with two distant lights visible ahead.
A nighttime view of a volcanic eruption with bright orange lava flowing and smoke billowing against a dark background.

Stay: Nāmakanipaio Campground

We stayed the night at Nāmakanipaio Campground in Volcanoes National Park. With year-round gloomy and cold weather, we reserved one of the rustic cabins in advance. The cabins are basic, but provided a welcome upgrade from tent camping for us.

Two cozy A-frame cabins with porch lights on, surrounded by grass and trees, creating a serene camping atmosphere.

Day 2: Volcanoes National Park & Hamakua Coast

The next morning, we embarked on the four-mile Kīlauea Iki Trail. The trail begins in lush rain forest on the crater rim before descending into the crater. Along the trail you can admire a variety of local flora, like the striking Ōhiʻa trees and their red blossoms. The Ōhiʻa is an endemic species that can only be found in Hawaii and has adapted to grow directly in lava rock.

A close-up of a spiral-shaped fern frond emerging amidst green and brown ferns in a natural setting.
A green fern frond with curled, developing leaves, set against a blurred background of forest trees and foliage.
Close-up of vibrant red flowers among green succulent plants, with a backdrop of rough, dark volcanic rock and a forest of trees in the background.
A barren volcanic landscape with a single, green tree in the foreground, showcasing black lava rock and distant hills under a cloudy sky.
A barren volcanic landscape featuring cracked black lava rock and sparse green vegetation under a cloudy sky.
A flowering shrub with red blossoms and green leaves growing on rocky volcanic terrain under a cloudy sky.

We hiked the trail counterclockwise, parking at the Kīlauea Iki Overlook on Crater Rim Drive and passing by the Thurston Lava Tube on the way back. Other stops on the Crater Rim Drive include the Kīlauea Overlook and Volcano House, which has a great gift shop and views of the steaming crater below.

A panoramic view of a volcanic caldera with smoke rising from its depths, surrounded by rocky terrain and sparse vegetation under a cloudy sky.

From Crater Rim Drive, we entered the Chain of Craters Road. Starting at 4,000 ft. elevation, it runs all the way to sea level over a span of 19 miles. The road cuts right through the lava created by past eruptions. From overlooks above, you can spot the dried lava streams into the ocean.

A view of a rocky volcanic landscape with dark lava flow, featuring patches of greenery in the foreground and a cloudy sky above.
A winding road cuts through a barren landscape of volcanic rock under a cloudy sky.
Colorful flowers in pink and orange growing among twigs and green leaves near a rocky surface.
A scenic view of a volcanic landscape featuring dark lava fields, sparse greenery, and a cloudy sky in the background.

The only way out of Volcanoes National Park is by retracing your steps, back to Volcano Village. We left the volcanic landscape behind and continued to tropical Hilo, also called the rainiest city in the US. In return for daily rain, the Hilo region offers lush green scenery and the stunning Akaka Falls.

A majestic waterfall cascading down a rocky cliff surrounded by lush green foliage and tropical plants, under a cloudy sky.
Lush green landscape featuring dense foliage and bamboo, with a waterfall visible in the background under a cloudy sky.

Stay: Laupahoehoe Beach Park

What we didn’t know is that this tropical wet climate extended to our scheduled stay for the night: Laupahoehoe Beach Park. We picked the worst possible moment to set up camp, right when a tropical storm was rolling in. After almost losing our tent to the Pacific Ocean, we shoved everything back into the car and drove off to safer grounds. We ended up staying in an Airbnb in Honokaa.

View of a rocky coastline with dark rocks emerging from the waves, surrounded by lush green vegetation under a cloudy sky.

Day 3: Waipi’o & Pololū Valley

We were preparing to hike the overnight Muliwai Trail to Waimanu Campsite, when it was announced that the trail and campsite had been closed until further notice. The trail leaves from the Waipiʻo Valley Overlook and zigzags into the neigboring Waimanu Valley. For a peak into the beautiful valley, we made a quick stop at Waipiʻo Valley Overlook.

A panoramic view of a lush green cliffside meeting a blue ocean, with a black sand beach along the coastline and a clear sky overhead.

The gloominess of Volcano and Hilo make way for blue skies when driving through upcountry Hawaii. The Kohala region is known for its ranching or Paniolo culture. The drive is very scenic, surrounded by green pastures and ocean views.

A panoramic view of a green landscape with rolling hills, trees, and a clear blue ocean in the distance under a bright blue sky with a few clouds.

The Pololū Valley Overlook lies at the other end of Waipi’o Valley Overlook, with seven valleys in between. A short hike leads to the valley floor and the black sand beach.

Scenic coastal view with lush greenery, palm trees, and a sparkling blue ocean under a clear sky with clouds.
A scenic view of a lush green valley surrounded by mountains under a partly cloudy blue sky.

After mentally preparing for an overnight hike in Waipi’o, I was determined to get some hiking miles in Pololū Valley. The Awini Trail climbs the opposite side of the valley to an amazing lookout point on the ridge. The trail runs behind the black sand beach and can be hard to find, until a clear path of switchbacks starts leading up.

Scenic view of a coastal landscape with cliffs, rocky formations, and waves gently crashing on the shore under a partly cloudy sky.

A bench on the ridge-top marks the Honokane Nui lookout, now end point of the trail that used to go further into the seven valleys. With stunning views all around and a refreshing Kona Island Lager, we were happy to find ourselves on this side of the valley.

A person sitting on a wooden bench overlooking a scenic coastline with cliffs and lush greenery, under a clear blue sky.
A person holding a can of Kona Brewing Company's Longboard Island Lager, with a scenic view of the ocean and lush green hills in the background.
A person sitting on a bench overlooking a lush green valley surrounded by mountains under a partly cloudy sky.

For lunch, we stopped in the colorful roadside town of Kapaau. Gill’s Lanai cooked us up a delicious grilled fish with a side of gecko.

A plate featuring grilled fish fillets, served with a side of white rice, black beans topped with cheese, and a lime wedge. In the background, a second plate with crispy fried fish and fries is visible.
A colorful green gecko with blue eyes climbs on a bright yellow wall, with bottles of sauces and condiments visible in the background.
A vibrant green gecko with red spots resting on a wooden surface, surrounded by lush green foliage.

Stay: Spencer Beach Park

To reach our stay for the night, we continued south along the Kohala coast. The contrast with our attempted stay on the east coast the night before could not have been bigger: Spencer Beach Park welcomed us with soft yellow sands, tranquil waters and a beautiful sunset. Camping zones are indicated, but there are no marked sites. We pitched our tent on a prime area overlooking the ocean.

Sunset over a calm ocean, with a rocky shoreline in the foreground and colorful clouds in the sky.
A camping tent set up on sandy ground by the water, with a scenic sunset over the lake in the background.

The bay is used as a training area for traditional Hawaiian outrigger canoe clubs. We got to see them paddling off during breakfast.

A frying pan with an omelette cooking on a portable stove, alongside a plate of grilled bread and sliced tomatoes, with a beach and kayakers in the background.
A serene coastal scene featuring a calm blue ocean with two canoes paddling in the distance. The foreground includes rocky shoreline and a leafy tree branch casting shade.

Day 4: Kohala Coast & Captain Cook

The Kohala Coast is a sunny stretch of stunning beaches on the northwestern side of the island. From Spencer Beach Park, a segment of the historic Ala Kahakai Trail runs along the coast to Hapuna Bay. We followed the trail-by-the-sea to Mauna Kea Beach. Arriving by foot has a clear advantage over limited public parking at the luxury Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, perched at one of the most beautiful beaches on the island.

A scenic view of a beach with turquoise water and sandy shore, framed by rocky coastline and lush greenery under a clear blue sky.
A beautiful beach scene with clear turquoise water, people swimming and enjoying the sun, and lush greenery in the background under a bright blue sky.

The trail passes by several beautiful bays before arriving at Mauna Kea, considered one of the best beaches on the Big Island. We even spotted a wedding taking place at a small secluded cove.

Scenic view of a beach with turquoise water, rocky shoreline, and sparse vegetation under a bright blue sky.
Scenic view of a coastal landscape featuring turquoise water, rocky shoreline, and lush green trees under a clear blue sky.

After this generous dose of sunshine, we left the Kohala Coast behind and drove south to Captain Cook. To get up close with the Big Island’s underwater life, we picked Two Step Beach at Honaunau Bay.

A person holding a yellow and white flower in front of tropical greenery.

In reality there is no beach, just lava rocks that make entrance into the water a bit tricky. Once underwater, we were completely in awe. Two Step best resembles a tropical, real-life aquarium. This was by far the best snorkeling we’ve experienced in Hawaii. Our underwater camera’s battery decided to die down before reaching the water, but the fish are so abundant they can even be spotted from the shore.

Scenic view of a tropical shoreline with lush palm trees, rocky coast, and clear blue water under a cloudy sky.

Two Step is located adjacent to Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park, which offers free parking and entrance with a National Park Pass. A self-guided walking tour took us past the sacred sites of these royal grounds. The park is a must-visit for a peak into ancient Hawaiian culture.

A scenic view of a tropical shoreline featuring palm trees, clear turquoise water, and ancient stone sculptures at the beach.

Stay: Ka’awa Loa Plantation

Ka’awa Loa Plantation could easily be the most picture-perfect B&B we ever stayed at. Perched on a hill overlooking Kealakekua Bay, this idyllic property is everything you could wish for a Hawaiian getaway. We took in ocean views from the jacuzzi and showered under the stars. These lovely perks were even more appreciated after ten days of camping.

A panoramic view of a lush landscape with various green plants and palm trees, overlooking a blue ocean and distant horizon under a clear sky.
A spacious porch featuring a blue floor, rocking chairs, a wooden table, and various seating areas including colorful cushions and plants, surrounded by lush greenery.
A cozy corner of a room featuring a wooden desk with a chair, a decorative mirror on the wall, a lamp with a shade, and a potted plant beside an ornate chair.
A charming two-story house with a spacious porch, surrounded by lush greenery and trees under a clear blue sky.

Day 5: Kailua-Kona

The tropical garden at Ka’awa Loa Plantation provided the main ingredients for a delicious breakfast, served on the beautiful wrap-around porch. We were wishing we would have booked another night at this heavenly stay, but the next island was calling.

A scenic view from a porch featuring two rocking chairs, a small table, and lush green landscape with ocean in the distance under a clear blue sky.
A man sitting at a table on a porch, enjoying breakfast amid a lush green landscape. The table is set with food and drinks, and there are wooden benches nearby.
A plate of fresh tropical fruit including pineapple, strawberries, mango, and other assorted fruits, with a side of scrambled eggs and potatoes, set on a table with a potted plant in the background.

The slopes of Kona in southeastern Hawaii are home to the Kona Coffee Belt. The combination of a unique climate, volcanic soil and handpicking of the beans makes Kona coffee one of the most exclusive in the world.

Two papaya trees with green and yellow fruit, surrounded by lush greenery and a blue sky.

We visited Greenwell Farms on our way to Kona airport. They offer free tours of the farm, explaining the growing and harvesting process of Kona coffee. All coffee varieties are available for complimentary tasting.

A row of metallic coffee dispensers labeled with different coffee varieties such as 'Paberry', 'Chameleon', 'Onouli', 'Dark Roast', 'Espresso Roast', 'Mac-Nut', and 'Chocolate Mac Nut'. Each dispenser features a description of the coffee type.

Sipping on a cup of 100% Kona coffee, we said goodbye to the Big Island of Hawaii. For a taste of authentic Hawaii, the Big Island should not be missed. If you are short on time or don’t plan to road trip around the island, you can take this packed one-day trip from Kona that covers many of the locations in this post.

A colorful illustrated map of Hawaii showing various landmarks, activities, and characters engaging in Hawaiian culture, with labels and descriptions of different areas.

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